Torch Buying Guide & FAQ - 2024/5
It's been a few years since I've done one of these, so we are well overdue an updated guide for would-be torch buyers
I am going to condense it down a little to make it a lighter read
Torch Basics & Jargon
--------------------------------------------------- Batteries ---------------------------------------------------
AA / AAA
The most widely available type of battery, can be bought almost anywhere. They are limited compared to modern lithium batteries as they don't have anywhere close to the the power density. Great choice for a backup torch. Zinc batteries are rubbish and Alkaline are just average. Rechargeable Ni-MH are the best type to use nowadays. Eneloop are probably the best brand of rechargeable AAA/AA. LADDA batteries sold in Ikea are basically repackaged Eneloops and are a bargain. Other than that check out Amazon Basic NI-MH batteries as they are good value too.
18650 Lithium
The 18650s has been a round for a few years now and its starting to be used everywhere for everything. It's a bit bigger than an AA battery (18mm x 65mm - Hence the name) and is very energy dense. A single 18650 holds the same amount of power as 5 x AA batteries. They are rechargeable, run at 3.7v and can be bought from around £4 - £10 each. Pretty much all decent torches now run off these (or a similar Lithium sized battery).
As a general buying guide its worth knowing that the capacity of a 18650 battery is around 2000mAh - 3500mAh. If you see any for sale that are higher (Some can claim over 9000mAh) then please avoid them! Fake 18650's can be dangerous and are known to explode or catch fire. Try a trusted Vape shop for reliable source for good ones.
21700, 26650 etc
These are similar to 18650s, except for the fact they are larger. The numbers indicate the dimensions in millimetres (e.g 21700 = 21mm x 70mm).
21700 has seen a bit of a jump in popularity in the last few years as it's only slightly bigger, but can store more power.
-------------------------------------------- Beam type / Optics ------------------------------------------
Optics/Lenses explained
The optics of the torch will define the characteristics of the beam. Different types of optics favour different situations and uses.
Floody
As the name suggests, a floody beam lights up a wide area and generally doesn't throw light a long distance. This is especially useful for exploring inside of buildings as the beam will light up the entire room instead of a single very bright point on the wall. TIR or Honeycomb optics as seen on the Armytek Wizard give a very wide floody beam. This is a very good type of optic to have on a headtorch for close up work and for seeing where you are going.
Thrower/Throwy
A long throwing beam with a tight hotspot will throw light a long distance. Great for lighting down to the end of long tunnels but not especially useful for general exploring. I find for light painting throwy torches don't work especially well as you end up with a very intense hotspot that leaves streaky light if you are not careful.
Zoomable/Zoomie
As seen in the much loved Led Lenser P7.2 or the P7R, the zoomable beam allows you to adjust the beam from a wide flood to a single zoomed in long throwing beam. Wonderful on paper but has a few shortfalls. Zoomie optics can be inefficient and lose light that it cuts off on the edges. It means your 400 Lumen LED might end up being 200 or 300 when it comes out the front of the torch. They can also be a source of water ingress as it's hard to waterproof a moving head that pulls a vacuum as you move it in and out. What they are great for is light painting, allowing you to paint light in nice and wide for close ups and zoom right in for long corridor or tunnel shots without overexposing other parts of the photo.
A balance beam pattern
There is no such things as a perfect beam pattern, but rather one that works for your needs. Zoomable torches can sort of offer a bit of both, but it's not perfect as sometimes you want both flood and throw.
A good quality fixed beam torch can offer both of these. Medium throw and a good bit of light spill is ideal for most uses.
--------------------- LED Tint and C.R.I (Quality of the light produced) --------------------
Quality of the light
Not all LEDs are created equally and the Quality of the light produced can vary greatly.
Ideally you want light that:
There are two factors in this, Tint and C.R.I (Colour Rendition Index).
Tint
Tint is a measure of the Kelvin Temperature of the light, or simply put, whether its Warm orange, pure white or a cool blue.
A normal range you might expect to see from a torch LED is 2700K - 6500K.
You can see on this colour scale what each of the Kelvin ratings look like.
4000K and lower is considers Warm and is my personal preference. It's just nicer to the eye and colours seem to 'pop' more.
5000K is a pure or neutral white. This is a nice all rounder.
6000K upwards is a cool white/blueish. This is generally seen on cheaper torches and is generally less desirable. I find this washes out colours more and things look more flat.
C.R.I - Colour Rendition Index
This describes how full the spectrum of the light is, the higher the spectrum the more colours will look accurate and correct. Notice how things look clearer when out in natural sunlight? This is because the sun produces a full spectrum of the visible light wavelengths.
LED torches do not produce a full spectrum of light, this means that certain colours won't show up as well as others. Normally Red is is the colour tends to drop off and will stand out less than the other colours. This is why some cheaper torches tend to wash everything out in a blueish haze, because the red and orange wavelengths aren't as bright as the blues or greens.
This is where the CRI Index comes in. CRI is a measure of how accurate the colour produced by a light and scores it.
The CRI range is a number value from 0 to 100.
LEDs now come in 'High CRI' varieties that produce much high quality light.
-------------------------------- Specs (Lumens, Candela & Throw) --------------------------------
Lumens
This is a measure of the amount of light that comes out the front of the torch. How these lumens are spread out or focused is entirely down to the optics. Whether is spread out wide in a soft floody beam or focused into a very tight and bright long throwing beam.
Torches have naturally got brighter and brighter as technology has improved. Where 200 lumens may have seemed bright 10-15 years ago, it is seen as underpowered nowadays with the 1000 lumens torches being the norm now. However don't get too suckered into the Lumen race as you won't find much use for anything past 2000 lumens for general exploring. Also for just walking around somewhere dark or underground you only really need 150-400lumens to see well enough. You will find that despite the fact that your torch might be good for say 2000lumens, 80% of the time you use it on a medium mode.
I've got a few 5000+ Lumen lights which are brilliant, but only useful in certain situations. They generate a lot of heat very quickly, munch through batteries and will very quickly draw attention to yourself.
Be aware of companies that claim silly lumen numbers. A single 18650 torch with a claimed 900,000 Lumens output (as can be found on Ebay or Amazon) is certainly not even a fraction of that.
Candela (cd)
This is more specific measure of the intensity of the beam at 1m away. A torch with a high Candela rating will be one that's very throwy and has a very tight and bright hotspot. This means that all the light is focused into a very small but bright area. A soft floody light of the same lumen output will have a much lower Candela measure as the light is being spread out over a larger area so the intensity at a single point is lower. You may find this is specification that's less used by torch manufacturers, but it's useful to know what it means.
------------------------------------------------- LED Emitters -------------------------------------------------
'Emitters' are the actual LED's that produce the light. New ones come out often and It's good to know what's good and what's outdated.
Good LEDs
Bad and outdated LED's
--------------------------------------- Torches buyers guide -----------------------------------------
General exploring handheld Torches
Small handheld torches that will fit in most jeans pockets. Mostly 18650 powered.
Convoy S2+ - £10-15
The convoy S2+ has been around for years, it's been sold with different drivers, LEDs, colours etc. It's cheap, simple, rugged and quite bright in the right spec. If you are on a tight budget and shopping on amazon for one of those £15 zoomable torches....dont. Buy a Convoy S2+ instead, it's just better. Recommend Nichia 519A for nice all rounder or SFT40 for brightest output.
Convoy S2+
Wurkkos FC11C - £15-25
Do you want a torch that's bright, well built, good runtimes, easy to use, USB chargable and cheap? Well stop reading and just buy this. The FC11C (The C version is the new version, not to be mixed up with the older FC11) has a Nichia 519A led with a lovely tint and output of 1200 Lumens from its 18650 battery. Even comes in a nice orange colour. I have a couple of these for dog walking and they are absolutely fantastic.
Top recommendation. Wurkkos FC11C
Skilhunt M200 - £40-£45
Skilhunt has been absolutely killing it with good torches the last few years. This is no exception. 18650 powered with 1400lumens max output. Magnetic charging, good build quality and fairly compact. Nichia 519A option for High CRI.
Skilhunt M200
Emisar D4S V2 - £40-£60
I have the earlier V1 version, which to this day is still my favourite torch. For it's size it's ridiculously bright at about 5000 lumens, plenty of throw and great for outdoor use. The ramping UI is easy to use but filled with features. If you want to go down the rabbit hole of good torches, check out Emisar as they are the best out there. Although be warned they are not perticually newbie friendly as there are so many options to overwhelm. I'd recommend the Nichia 519A 5000K dedome LED option. You are welcome to message me if you need any advice on Emisar stuff.
Emisar D4S
Head Torches
Essential if you do a lot of underground exploring.
Sofirn HS10 - £15
If you are in the market for a very small light headtorch that is cheap and still fairly bright than the HS10 is a great option. Small battery means runtimes are 1-2 hours max, but for small explores that may be plenty. Its 37grams in weight, so you could have it on your head all day and barely notice. Oh and it's dirt cheap.
Sofirn HS10
Sofirn HS21 - £30
I recently bought one of these after seeing rave reviews. It's quickly become my favourite headtorch, it's fantastic.
It's got a rotary switch to change between flood, throw, Flood & Throw & red. It's super easy to use and great if you need to regular switch between seeing long distance or just flooding the area infront of you. 2200lumens max output, USB Charging and regulated output (meaning nice long runtimes). While it's not the last word in CRI or quality tint, it's decent enough that id recommend this as the go to cheap headtorch.
Top Recommendation. Sofirn HS21
Skilhunt H04 RC - £40
Nice floody soft beam, easy to use and very light. This is the magnetic charging version which makes it quite practical. Output is 1100-700lumen depending on emitter choice. A good all rounder.
Skilhunt H04 RC
Skilhunt H200 - £50
Like the H04, but brighter and with a red light. This is a triple LED headtorch, two white lights and one red. About 1600lumens top output with magnetic recharging. Nice size and even nicer range of colour options.
Skilhunt H200
Skilhunt H300 - £50
Even brighter than the H200, is the H300. Single emitter pushing nearly 2500 lumens. Magnetic charging, nice and compact and decent build quality.
Skilhunt H300
Olight Perun 3 - £90
One of the more expensive light brands, but of very good quality and very bright. It uses the larger 21700 battery which means hours of use and 3000 lumens on the hightest setting. It's expensive but a very nice head torch. Only negatives are poor CRI and in typical Olight fashion uses a proprietary battery for it's charging system.
Olight Perun 3
Big Power, Throw, Zoomies and anything else!
Big output bright torches
Sofirn Q8 Plus - £75
When it comes to lumens per £, the Sofirn Q8 Plus wins hands down. 16,000 lumens and around £75. It's a beer can sized light that uses 3 x 27000 batteries. Limited use for normal exploring, but if you are trying to light up large underground spaces, this will do it!
Sofirn Q8 Plus
Sofirn IF22A - £30
Do you want to see a thing that's far way, well you want a thrower. 700m of throw and 2100 lumens. Pretty good value too.
Sofirn IF22A
Fenix LD45R - £170
Zoomies are generally looked upon as the cheap slightly crap torches that don't really do anything well. However sometimes that's not always the case. The new Fenix LD45R uses a really cool zoom lens system that keeps a nice focused hotspot, but allows you to zoom it in and out. It's got nearly 3000 lumens output and can hit 480m of throw. It's expensive, very expensive but the focus is driven digitally using a little switch rather than physically having to move the end of the torch. It's very cool.
Fenix FD45R
Nebo Slyde King 2k - £45
I wouldn't normally be recommending Nebo as they are fairly mediocre, however if you need to get your hands on a semi-decent torch in a pinch, and local shops is your only choice, then you have to settle with the best you can get. It's bright, it's functional and it's got a flood COB light aswell a zoomable focus beam. Can be purchased from Screwfix and a few other shops. - Also The Nebo Torchy 2K isn't bad either at about £25.
Nebo Slyde King 2K
--------------------------------------- Final Notes -----------------------------------------
Lights to avoid!
It's very easy to jump onto amazon and buy something that's absolutely rubbush. Amazon and ebay are a sea of terrible terrible lights.
If it looks anything like this, claims outragous lumen numbers look elsewhere!
Resources
If you want to go further down the rabbit-hole that is the world of torches and flashlights, then heres a few places to look.
https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/
https://zakreviews.com
Any questions, things I've missed etc, feel free to pop me a message.
It's been a few years since I've done one of these, so we are well overdue an updated guide for would-be torch buyers
I am going to condense it down a little to make it a lighter read
Torch Basics & Jargon
--------------------------------------------------- Batteries ---------------------------------------------------
AA / AAA
The most widely available type of battery, can be bought almost anywhere. They are limited compared to modern lithium batteries as they don't have anywhere close to the the power density. Great choice for a backup torch. Zinc batteries are rubbish and Alkaline are just average. Rechargeable Ni-MH are the best type to use nowadays. Eneloop are probably the best brand of rechargeable AAA/AA. LADDA batteries sold in Ikea are basically repackaged Eneloops and are a bargain. Other than that check out Amazon Basic NI-MH batteries as they are good value too.
18650 Lithium
The 18650s has been a round for a few years now and its starting to be used everywhere for everything. It's a bit bigger than an AA battery (18mm x 65mm - Hence the name) and is very energy dense. A single 18650 holds the same amount of power as 5 x AA batteries. They are rechargeable, run at 3.7v and can be bought from around £4 - £10 each. Pretty much all decent torches now run off these (or a similar Lithium sized battery).
As a general buying guide its worth knowing that the capacity of a 18650 battery is around 2000mAh - 3500mAh. If you see any for sale that are higher (Some can claim over 9000mAh) then please avoid them! Fake 18650's can be dangerous and are known to explode or catch fire. Try a trusted Vape shop for reliable source for good ones.
21700, 26650 etc
These are similar to 18650s, except for the fact they are larger. The numbers indicate the dimensions in millimetres (e.g 21700 = 21mm x 70mm).
21700 has seen a bit of a jump in popularity in the last few years as it's only slightly bigger, but can store more power.
-------------------------------------------- Beam type / Optics ------------------------------------------
Optics/Lenses explained
The optics of the torch will define the characteristics of the beam. Different types of optics favour different situations and uses.
Floody
As the name suggests, a floody beam lights up a wide area and generally doesn't throw light a long distance. This is especially useful for exploring inside of buildings as the beam will light up the entire room instead of a single very bright point on the wall. TIR or Honeycomb optics as seen on the Armytek Wizard give a very wide floody beam. This is a very good type of optic to have on a headtorch for close up work and for seeing where you are going.
Thrower/Throwy
A long throwing beam with a tight hotspot will throw light a long distance. Great for lighting down to the end of long tunnels but not especially useful for general exploring. I find for light painting throwy torches don't work especially well as you end up with a very intense hotspot that leaves streaky light if you are not careful.
Zoomable/Zoomie
As seen in the much loved Led Lenser P7.2 or the P7R, the zoomable beam allows you to adjust the beam from a wide flood to a single zoomed in long throwing beam. Wonderful on paper but has a few shortfalls. Zoomie optics can be inefficient and lose light that it cuts off on the edges. It means your 400 Lumen LED might end up being 200 or 300 when it comes out the front of the torch. They can also be a source of water ingress as it's hard to waterproof a moving head that pulls a vacuum as you move it in and out. What they are great for is light painting, allowing you to paint light in nice and wide for close ups and zoom right in for long corridor or tunnel shots without overexposing other parts of the photo.
A balance beam pattern
There is no such things as a perfect beam pattern, but rather one that works for your needs. Zoomable torches can sort of offer a bit of both, but it's not perfect as sometimes you want both flood and throw.
A good quality fixed beam torch can offer both of these. Medium throw and a good bit of light spill is ideal for most uses.
--------------------- LED Tint and C.R.I (Quality of the light produced) --------------------
Quality of the light
Not all LEDs are created equally and the Quality of the light produced can vary greatly.
Ideally you want light that:
- Provides a full colour spectrum and allows you to see everything clearly without washing out colours.
- Has a neutral white or slightly warm colour tint that is pleasing to the eye and doesn't cause eye strain.
- Is bright enough to allow you to see what you want to see.
There are two factors in this, Tint and C.R.I (Colour Rendition Index).
Tint
Tint is a measure of the Kelvin Temperature of the light, or simply put, whether its Warm orange, pure white or a cool blue.
A normal range you might expect to see from a torch LED is 2700K - 6500K.
You can see on this colour scale what each of the Kelvin ratings look like.
4000K and lower is considers Warm and is my personal preference. It's just nicer to the eye and colours seem to 'pop' more.
5000K is a pure or neutral white. This is a nice all rounder.
6000K upwards is a cool white/blueish. This is generally seen on cheaper torches and is generally less desirable. I find this washes out colours more and things look more flat.
C.R.I - Colour Rendition Index
This describes how full the spectrum of the light is, the higher the spectrum the more colours will look accurate and correct. Notice how things look clearer when out in natural sunlight? This is because the sun produces a full spectrum of the visible light wavelengths.
LED torches do not produce a full spectrum of light, this means that certain colours won't show up as well as others. Normally Red is is the colour tends to drop off and will stand out less than the other colours. This is why some cheaper torches tend to wash everything out in a blueish haze, because the red and orange wavelengths aren't as bright as the blues or greens.
This is where the CRI Index comes in. CRI is a measure of how accurate the colour produced by a light and scores it.
The CRI range is a number value from 0 to 100.
LEDs now come in 'High CRI' varieties that produce much high quality light.
- CRI 70 is about average, and anything much lower than that is worth avoiding.
- CRI 80 is decent, colours will start to look a little more natural.
- CRI 90+ is very good.
- CRI 99 is the ceiling of the current LED technology.
- CRI 100 is the highest you can get and is the rating of old Incandescent lights or natural sunlight.
-------------------------------- Specs (Lumens, Candela & Throw) --------------------------------
Lumens
This is a measure of the amount of light that comes out the front of the torch. How these lumens are spread out or focused is entirely down to the optics. Whether is spread out wide in a soft floody beam or focused into a very tight and bright long throwing beam.
Torches have naturally got brighter and brighter as technology has improved. Where 200 lumens may have seemed bright 10-15 years ago, it is seen as underpowered nowadays with the 1000 lumens torches being the norm now. However don't get too suckered into the Lumen race as you won't find much use for anything past 2000 lumens for general exploring. Also for just walking around somewhere dark or underground you only really need 150-400lumens to see well enough. You will find that despite the fact that your torch might be good for say 2000lumens, 80% of the time you use it on a medium mode.
I've got a few 5000+ Lumen lights which are brilliant, but only useful in certain situations. They generate a lot of heat very quickly, munch through batteries and will very quickly draw attention to yourself.
Be aware of companies that claim silly lumen numbers. A single 18650 torch with a claimed 900,000 Lumens output (as can be found on Ebay or Amazon) is certainly not even a fraction of that.
Candela (cd)
This is more specific measure of the intensity of the beam at 1m away. A torch with a high Candela rating will be one that's very throwy and has a very tight and bright hotspot. This means that all the light is focused into a very small but bright area. A soft floody light of the same lumen output will have a much lower Candela measure as the light is being spread out over a larger area so the intensity at a single point is lower. You may find this is specification that's less used by torch manufacturers, but it's useful to know what it means.
------------------------------------------------- LED Emitters -------------------------------------------------
'Emitters' are the actual LED's that produce the light. New ones come out often and It's good to know what's good and what's outdated.
Good LEDs
| Emitter | Description |
|---|---|
| Cree XP-L HI | Bright outputs combined with good throw make this a good light for raw output. CRI isn't anything special. |
| Cree XHP35 / XHP50 / XHP70 | Physically larger LED's but with very high outputs. The XHP70 is good for 4000lumen per emitter. |
| Luminus SST-20 | Very High CRI and decent output, only recently been de-throned by the Nichia 519A. |
| Luminus SST-40 | Lower CRI than the SST-20 but with higher output. |
| Nichia 519A | The new king of LEDs as it has both good CRI and bright output. Very good LED. |
| Samsung LH351D | Fairly average on all fronts, but not bad. |
Bad and outdated LED's
| Emitter | Description |
|---|---|
| Cree XML-T6 | A very dated LED that's only used on the cheapest of the cheap torches now. |
| Cree XP-G2/G3 | Fairly effecient but with bad tint, Low CRI. It's not terrible, but you can do better. Fairly dated. |
| Cree XML-U2 | This ones pretty dated too like the T6 but can be found on lots of Amazon sold torches. |
--------------------------------------- Torches buyers guide -----------------------------------------
General exploring handheld Torches
Small handheld torches that will fit in most jeans pockets. Mostly 18650 powered.
Convoy S2+ - £10-15
The convoy S2+ has been around for years, it's been sold with different drivers, LEDs, colours etc. It's cheap, simple, rugged and quite bright in the right spec. If you are on a tight budget and shopping on amazon for one of those £15 zoomable torches....dont. Buy a Convoy S2+ instead, it's just better. Recommend Nichia 519A for nice all rounder or SFT40 for brightest output.
Convoy S2+
Wurkkos FC11C - £15-25
Do you want a torch that's bright, well built, good runtimes, easy to use, USB chargable and cheap? Well stop reading and just buy this. The FC11C (The C version is the new version, not to be mixed up with the older FC11) has a Nichia 519A led with a lovely tint and output of 1200 Lumens from its 18650 battery. Even comes in a nice orange colour. I have a couple of these for dog walking and they are absolutely fantastic.
Top recommendation. Wurkkos FC11C
Skilhunt M200 - £40-£45
Skilhunt has been absolutely killing it with good torches the last few years. This is no exception. 18650 powered with 1400lumens max output. Magnetic charging, good build quality and fairly compact. Nichia 519A option for High CRI.
Skilhunt M200
Emisar D4S V2 - £40-£60
I have the earlier V1 version, which to this day is still my favourite torch. For it's size it's ridiculously bright at about 5000 lumens, plenty of throw and great for outdoor use. The ramping UI is easy to use but filled with features. If you want to go down the rabbit hole of good torches, check out Emisar as they are the best out there. Although be warned they are not perticually newbie friendly as there are so many options to overwhelm. I'd recommend the Nichia 519A 5000K dedome LED option. You are welcome to message me if you need any advice on Emisar stuff.
Emisar D4S
Head Torches
Essential if you do a lot of underground exploring.
Sofirn HS10 - £15
If you are in the market for a very small light headtorch that is cheap and still fairly bright than the HS10 is a great option. Small battery means runtimes are 1-2 hours max, but for small explores that may be plenty. Its 37grams in weight, so you could have it on your head all day and barely notice. Oh and it's dirt cheap.
Sofirn HS10
Sofirn HS21 - £30
I recently bought one of these after seeing rave reviews. It's quickly become my favourite headtorch, it's fantastic.
It's got a rotary switch to change between flood, throw, Flood & Throw & red. It's super easy to use and great if you need to regular switch between seeing long distance or just flooding the area infront of you. 2200lumens max output, USB Charging and regulated output (meaning nice long runtimes). While it's not the last word in CRI or quality tint, it's decent enough that id recommend this as the go to cheap headtorch.
Top Recommendation. Sofirn HS21
Skilhunt H04 RC - £40
Nice floody soft beam, easy to use and very light. This is the magnetic charging version which makes it quite practical. Output is 1100-700lumen depending on emitter choice. A good all rounder.
Skilhunt H04 RC
Skilhunt H200 - £50
Like the H04, but brighter and with a red light. This is a triple LED headtorch, two white lights and one red. About 1600lumens top output with magnetic recharging. Nice size and even nicer range of colour options.
Skilhunt H200
Skilhunt H300 - £50
Even brighter than the H200, is the H300. Single emitter pushing nearly 2500 lumens. Magnetic charging, nice and compact and decent build quality.
Skilhunt H300
Olight Perun 3 - £90
One of the more expensive light brands, but of very good quality and very bright. It uses the larger 21700 battery which means hours of use and 3000 lumens on the hightest setting. It's expensive but a very nice head torch. Only negatives are poor CRI and in typical Olight fashion uses a proprietary battery for it's charging system.
Olight Perun 3
Big Power, Throw, Zoomies and anything else!
Big output bright torches
Sofirn Q8 Plus - £75
When it comes to lumens per £, the Sofirn Q8 Plus wins hands down. 16,000 lumens and around £75. It's a beer can sized light that uses 3 x 27000 batteries. Limited use for normal exploring, but if you are trying to light up large underground spaces, this will do it!
Sofirn Q8 Plus
Sofirn IF22A - £30
Do you want to see a thing that's far way, well you want a thrower. 700m of throw and 2100 lumens. Pretty good value too.
Sofirn IF22A
Fenix LD45R - £170
Zoomies are generally looked upon as the cheap slightly crap torches that don't really do anything well. However sometimes that's not always the case. The new Fenix LD45R uses a really cool zoom lens system that keeps a nice focused hotspot, but allows you to zoom it in and out. It's got nearly 3000 lumens output and can hit 480m of throw. It's expensive, very expensive but the focus is driven digitally using a little switch rather than physically having to move the end of the torch. It's very cool.
Fenix FD45R
Nebo Slyde King 2k - £45
I wouldn't normally be recommending Nebo as they are fairly mediocre, however if you need to get your hands on a semi-decent torch in a pinch, and local shops is your only choice, then you have to settle with the best you can get. It's bright, it's functional and it's got a flood COB light aswell a zoomable focus beam. Can be purchased from Screwfix and a few other shops. - Also The Nebo Torchy 2K isn't bad either at about £25.
Nebo Slyde King 2K
--------------------------------------- Final Notes -----------------------------------------
Lights to avoid!
It's very easy to jump onto amazon and buy something that's absolutely rubbush. Amazon and ebay are a sea of terrible terrible lights.
If it looks anything like this, claims outragous lumen numbers look elsewhere!
Resources
If you want to go further down the rabbit-hole that is the world of torches and flashlights, then heres a few places to look.
https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/
https://zakreviews.com
Any questions, things I've missed etc, feel free to pop me a message.
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