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Report - - RAF Sculthorpe..Norfolk, September-November 2024 | Military Sites | 28DaysLater.co.uk

Report - RAF Sculthorpe..Norfolk, September-November 2024

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Mikeymutt

28DL Regular User
Regular User
I noticed I have done reports here from the bomb stores and tower, also from the bulk fuel storage. I have done a few film shots as well, but never covered the main site in some depth which is the technical, domestic and admin side. Sculthorpe is a place i have been many times, more than I care to remember. I have a strong affection for it, being my first ever explore, and my love for military sites. And this being one of the biggest American airbases in Europe I think it’s got quite a history to it. The place is looking a bit worse for wear now but holds a certain charm. It’s still quite photogenic, and a great place to go if starting out as it’s relaxed and a lot to see still. It’s not all about photogenic corridors as many think though, there is still a lot of remnants of the Cold War when tensions was high and Sculthorpe was at the front. I visited with my mate Ian in September as he had not been for years. Then I went to finally see the heritage centre as never been before, got there nice and early to cover more bits before I went in. Ironically I ripped a good pair of combats on a sticky out bit of fence and had a great rip in them. Not wanting to go in the heritage centre with a big rip up my trousers I had to drive to Fakenham to get some new ones in Tescos then get changed and come back.

Here is my report from the bulk fuel storage.


And report from the bomb stores and tower.


WORLD WAR TWO

RAF sculthorpe started life as a satellite airfield to RAF West Raynham, Great Massingham had already been constructed as the first satellite airfield from Raynham. So when Sculthorpe was designated as the second satellite then this would make the triage of airfields as was quite common. Even though it was the second satellite it went on to become the biggest and most secretive base in Norfolk. Work began in 1942 with concrete runways being constructed and it to be designated as a class A heavy bomber airfield. The work was done mainly by Irish labourers who lived in tents on site. The Irish built many airfields in East Anglia. The work was completed in October 1943, but the site ceased to be a satellite and became independent. The airfield had two runways and 36 hard standings. Two T2 hangars and the standard communal and domestics sites which could house over 2000 men and women. In 1944 it was designated as a VHB (very heavy bomber) airfield, the original runways were ripped up and new ones were constructed which were wider and longer. Roads had to be adjusted to accompany the extension,and Irish labourers were used again who worked night and day. The contractor was John Laing who was one of the contractors involved in the original construction. The airfield expansion was still not completed by the end of the war.

THE COLD WAR

With rising tensions after the war with the soviets who now occupied large areas of Eastern Europe, the British and Americans were debating on letting the Americans use the various VHB sites to host the USAF, as was other countries in Europe. When the Berlin crisis erupted in 1948 this was accelerated. Sculthorpe was to become a permanent base for the USAF, and in 1949 saw intense activity to get the base ready for the first visitors. A year earlier had seen a massive reconstruction effort with new buildings and stores. The Z blocks were being constructed to house the single airmen. Many of the facilities on site were still from the war, and the base not being used for four years were in very poor condition. Various hotels around Norfolk were used to house the service men as the facilities were that poor. Accommodation for married couples was an even bigger problem. Eventually new facilities were being built to house the married couples. The first planes to arrive at Sculthorpe was the B-29s, these were based at various other airfields including Lakenheath and Marham. Many RAF personnel were based at Sculthorpe and shared the faculties with the Americans, like the officers mess. Tensions were quite high between the RAF and USAF as can be guessed. These tensions only got worse as time went on, with the British complaining about arrogance and arrogance from the American personnel based there. But tensions were rising with the Soviets and with the Korean War kicking off, this increased more. The American and British governments were debating on which bases would be given to the Americans on a permanent basis. Sculthorpe was a dead cert to be an official American base. It was finally handed over to the Americans on the 1st February 1951, the remaining RAF personnel were moved out except a few liaison officers and the base became basically American soil. Lakenheath and Mildenhall were also handed over around this time for American use, and are still in use to this day. Various squadrons used the base over the next few years with various planes being based here. Even the B-36 peacemakers visited Sculthorpe. But they never had a permanent role in the UK, as the infrastructure needed to maintain and service the biggest bomber in the world was too much. The next use for the base was when the 91st reconnaissance unit arrived in 1951. This saw a lot more secretive planes entering into Sculthorpe, the main use of these were to plot the terrain in Europe for NATO forces, so they knew were to fight if the Soviet Union ever invaded. The RB-45c tornado was tasked with this mission often flying ten hour missions a day. These were the first four engines jet powered bombers seen in Europe and were the equivalent of the B-45 bomber but used for spying and reconnaissance work. Sculthorpes heyday was from 1953 to 1956 with a massive build up of American USAF personnel building up in the UK. Sculthorpe at its peak hosted over ten thousand personnel and dependants at the base, and was the largest in the uk. The bulk of the planes based here during them years were the B-45 tornado bombers, these would be the ones to carry nuclear payloads to Russia if war broke out and Russia launched a nuclear attack. Lots of other units were based at Sculthorpe, including search and rescue planes. The B-45s were starting to age and these were replaced by the newer B-66, the KB- 50 would also be based here to refuel the bombers. These started arriving in 1957 and the B-45s would be replaced. Technology was moving on rapidly though, with the development of the ICBM (intercontinental ballistic missile) this would have a massive effect on Sculthorpe. Nuclear bombs could be launched without the use of bombers, THOR missile sites were springing up around the country. In 1962 the 47th bomb wing finally left Sculthorpe, the last bomb squadron to be based there. The air refuelling fleet stayed this 1963 unit they finally departed the base. 1962 saw the number of personnel go from 8,500 to 2,500 As the base seemed to winding down to a potential closure. The base was handed back to the ministry of defence and was used as a standby base for storage. The technical side was going to be sold off and the housing kept as an overspill for families based at RAF West Raynham. But in 1966 the French decided they did not want US nuclear bombs on French soil and they would withdraw from NATO. The base was to reopen from 1967 as a storage site, then as a standby base to RAF Lakenheath. The problem was that after a few years laying dormant the runways had overgrown. The buildings lay empty and neglected. The Americans had stripped stuff of use, looters had been in a stripped the place. The kids from the married quarters had smashed windows and famed the buildings badly, so when people say kids doing damage is a new thing, it’s total rubbish. A lot of buildings were demolished and some were restored ready for use again. About two thirds were demolished, but new ones were built. The base carried on for twenty years in this status. But with the Cold War coming to and end in the late eighties. it was finally wound down and in 1992 the American flag was lowered and the base was finally closed. The airfield was handed back to the ministry of defence and the technical and domestic site was sold off and now hosts some industrial units. The accommodation is still there but in a very derelict state. The married couples housing at Sydersone was sold off and now private housing. The airside is still military and is part of the STANTA training area. Exercises are regularly practiced on here throughout the year. American special forces from Mildenhall do regular night training here and often do parachute drops. Ospreys and Hercules can often be seen flying here.

LIFE ON THE BASE

The base catered for all the American needs. A gymnasium with squash court and roller skating. A two lane bowling alley, baseball court, football pitch, nine hole golf course. There was also two chapels and cinema. And several social clubs, with the NCOs club being very popular and known as one of the best. Shops would provide the Americans with all there needs like drinks and chocolate and cigarettes. The Americans did like to use the local pubs, and the landlords relished this, with the Americans spending large amounts of money. They would often travel to Norwich for the pubs and dance halls. But any trouble was soon stopped by the airforce police and they would be bundled in a truck and taken back to base. Housing was tight on base so many Americans rented places all over Norfolk much to delight of property owners. Many servicemen met local women and lots got married. My auntie married a serviceman from Sculthorpe and moved to America when she was sixteen, sadly like many the marriage did not last, she still lives over there though. Many locals were employed on the base and the Americans paid them well. They were employed as cleaners, office workers, drivers and in the social clubs. Sadly racism was still a problem with the American. After many issues during World War Two when Americans were based in various countries in Europe, segregation was still a thing and caused many problems. This resulted in several riots and deaths in various towns across different countries. Segregation was abolished in 1948 but his did not stop problems on base. With blacks and whites sitting at differnt tables, and often fights would break out in the clubs.

INCIDENTS

One night on Saturday 31st 1953 a storm caught the east coast of the uk off guard. High tides and hurricane force winds caused the worst flooding this country has seen. Over 300 people died, 100 of them in Norfolk. 16 Americans lost their lives in the storms, these were families of people working at the base. Many personnel were rushed from the base and helped in the rescue, this was to cement friendship the American contingent basedin Norfolk. One serviceman stood out from the rest, airman second class Reiss L. Leming rushed in the water. But despite being a none swimmer braved the tides three times towing an inflatable raft. He was working in darkness and often up to his neck in water. After his third attempt he had to abandon it after he nearly collapsed with exhaustion and hypothermia. But he managed to rescue 27 people and was awarded the soldiers medal from the American government and the George Medal from the British government. He became a hero in Hunstanton and when he married a local girl the town organised his wedding and he was lavished with gifts. He made several visits back to the uk with his wife and met the queen and queen mother in 1993 at Sandringham. He passed away in 2012 at the age of 82. Many other servicemen were awarded medals for bravery, and many more would have perished that night if it had not been for the help of the Americans from Sculthorpe. The army cooks of the 38th anti aircraft artillery brigade from Sculthorpe even cooked up 1400 meals the next morning. And tankers brought fresh water as everything had been contaminated with sea water.

In 1959 a major incident happened at the base. General B.C Harrison of the air force said in a secret meeting in the pentagon “gentleman we have a problem”. On the 30th of October 1958, master sergeant Leander V. Cunningham decided to lock himself in a building and threaten to shoot himself with a 45 pistol. His wife, senior officers, chaplains and senior officers spent 8 hours trying to persuade him to put down his weapon. He finally gave up and was taken into medical care. Cunningham was a nuclear weapons technician, and rumours soon circulated that he was in a nuclear store and threatened to fire the weapon at nuclear material or prime a bomb. The authorities played this down and said he was in an old parachute store and that he it was mental health breakdown due to family problems. The US officials denied that priming devices were in the building, and that it was impossible for one man to set of a nuclear explosion, let alone get in the heavily guarded building. But that still did not stop the rumours flowing. Many civilians were on base and was told to stay in buildings and told to keep there heads down. The base was locked down for hours, till the all clear was given and people could leave the base. The press had a field day with it, but officials still denied it. But in 1962 it came out that the sergeant had intended to fire his weapon at a nuclear bomb and was suffering from mental delusion. One American source said that admitting the event could have knocked them out of England. Even then the Americans still denied he had not locked himself in a building with fissionable materials, but could not deny that he was going to detonate a bomb. After this the authorities screened people for psychological behaviour. No one was allowed in alone and had to have someone with them, and new rules to guard stocks were introduced.

A murder occurred at Sculthorpe. Forty three year old Mary Helen Marymount was taken to hospital on the base on June 9th 1958. She had been for lunch in Kings Lynn and suddenly collapsed. Her husband had been informed that she was dying but did not seem particularly bothered by this. She died that night despite the efforts of the doctors to save her. The doctors on the base had suspicions that she had been poisoned. They told Master Sergeant Marcus Marymount that they would need to do an post mortem, which he agreed to but then later changed his mind over consent. Acting on suspicions about his strange behaviour, the military authorities then started an investigation into her death. They found that he had tried to buy arsenic in Maidenhead, and also asked civilian cleaners were he could get arsenic from. It also turned out he was having an affair with a 23 year old woman, who was married but separated. He lied and said he was married but his wife and children lived in America. His objection to the post mortem was over ruled by the authorities and it was found that she had ingested arsenic around 24 hrs previous. He was found guilty of nursery and misconduct with his mistress and sentenced to life till he passed a way in 2000


The Airfield

Starting off with gate No1. This was the main gate into the site. With all the roads leading from this road. All the roads had names, like army road, flag street, chapel road, Sculthorpe boulevard and so on. I remember these signs all being present on my first few visits. Several have been saved by the museum.

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Stores and workshops. This building is not in use now but sealed tight.

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Looking down Army Road to the stores and gatehouse. I think I may have been stood on the old football pitch.

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The baseball court.

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Heading to the strategic air command and operations and briefing block. This was one of the main heartbeats of the base, here you had the military police offices, and plotting room. This is one of two gate houses into the compound and to get airside.

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The large telephone exchange.

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Sime very solid looking doors around here as well. One almost looks like it’s for a cell room.

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Very rusty light switch.

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The plotting and operations room.

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Once a plush office next to the plotting room.

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Mikeymutt

28DL Regular User
Regular User
The Z blocks, completed around 1950 and crazy to think they are around 75 years old. They were meant to be a room per person. But ended up with two in bunks. They had communal showers and toilets and communal rooms. A total of six of these were built.



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Some original graffiti from one block.

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Billeting, recreation and dining hall. This was were the men would come to unwind and eat. It quite a large building with sime accomodation on a wing. Were the telephone booths are the museum found some boards were personnel had scribbled numbers down as they phoned back to the states. These were rescued and in the museum.

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The old nursery, just one room with kitchens to the side and toilets. Was lots of nice paintings on the wall, these have been scribbled over now sadly.

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The chapel and cinema which is now the museum. The curator Ian and his team of volunteers have done a fantastic job of converting this very derelict building in 18 months and well worth the visits. The enthusiasm and knowledge was great. It has many artefacts and personal stories donated from former service men and women. It also has lovely cake on open days. I spent ages here reading everything. And it helped my report a lot.

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The VHB tower from my second visit ten years ago. This was one of only four of this tower. It was destroyed in 2022 due to the concrete crumbling. Neglect and vandalism had took its toll.

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Mikeymutt

28DL Regular User
Regular User
Storage and warehouse buildings. Most of these are in use and well fenced off. Behind these I found some concrete sheds what I have never seen before,

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The main roundabout. The roads led up to the accommodation, chapel and leisure facilities and technical site. This is near the operations block and once had a F-100 Super Sabre sat on it as a gate guard. Normally these are at the entrance of bases.

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The commissionary. A fairly stripped and dingy building except some nice toilets.

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The wing headquarters. Part of this was demolished and now just a roofless shell,

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Former chapel and now a small factory of some sort. The museum is in a chapel as well, not sure if that was replaced by this one or if they had two for different religions.

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Looking down to the operations block from the chapel, the airfield is to the left.

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Former gymnasium and squash courts. I got in here last year but lost my photos from it when I lost a load. They have since made a stirling effort sealing it up.

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The elementary school. It was converted into a happy shopper after the base closed. I went in here six years ago and have pics, but was nothing exciting.

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Standby set house.

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AAFES gas station. AAFES was the body of the military that ran the paid for profit stuff like petrol, cinemas, bowling etc.

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MT section.

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The Truman block. A three storey gloomy looking block for officers. They had telephone booths and communal showers and toilet blocks. Plus communal rooms. Unlike the Z blocks the rooms were considerably bigger with cupboard space.

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HughieD

28DL Regular User
Regular User
Most comprehensive report I've seen on here. Excellent stuff. Makes me realise how little of the place I saw when I went here eight years ago.
 

Wastelandr

Goes where the Buddleia grows
Regular User
A brilliant report and photos, really enjoyed reading through this. Nice to see the more overlooked parts of Sculthorpe covered comprehensively and all labelled. Shows how much is left aside from the Z blocks. Ive seen those Z blocks appear at a lot of other airfields post-WW2, but many have been demolished in the last few decades. Shame about the pics inside the gym and squash courts but onwards and upwards! Would be good to see more pics inside the peripheral buildings if they had much of interest in. The gas station is pretty cool!
 

Calamity Jane

i see beauty in the unloved, places & things
Regular User
Fantastic report. Very comprehensive. Brilliant photos. Lovely decay and peel. Love the drawings. And some great toilets too :oo
 

dansgas1000

28DL Regular User
Regular User
Brilliant sutff mate, nice to see full coverage on that's left. Sculthorpe was my first place too back in 2014, I love the place and always visit once a year/every couple of years or so as it's so relaxed and it's a large site.

Photos look fab, the editing style gives quite a dark moody vibe for many of the photos which I think is really effective. I'll be going here again soon when I get my new camera to test it out :p you are getting some good use out of that 8-16mm, such a great range.
 

Mikeymutt

28DL Regular User
Regular User
A brilliant report and photos, really enjoyed reading through this. Nice to see the more overlooked parts of Sculthorpe covered comprehensively and all labelled. Shows how much is left aside from the Z blocks. Ive seen those Z blocks appear at a lot of other airfields post-WW2, but many have been demolished in the last few decades. Shame about the pics inside the gym and squash courts but onwards and upwards! Would be good to see more pics inside the peripheral buildings if they had much of interest in. The gas station is pretty cool!
Thanks mate. I wanted to cover all the used buildings as well for completion. I have not seen z blocks anywhere before, but sure they must have had them elsewhere as they look a standard design type building. I only took three pics in the gym building. It was just a big open space and kids had out graffiti in the squash court. It was open for a few years though and they boarded all the windows from the inside. The other buildings are mainly in use, the standby set house is by a garage. The gas station is cool but absolutely trashed inside now, prob got old pics of it. The school/shop was intact when I went in it.
 

Mikeymutt

28DL Regular User
Regular User
Did you not stick your camera into the pumphouse? Those are alot of very nice pictures there almost makes me want to go back again
It was closed right with wire. I tried the borehole pump house outside as well. But I got across the field and it was a mountain of brambles and literally nowhere to get to it. Brambles more than twice the height of me.
 

Mikeymutt

28DL Regular User
Regular User
Brilliant sutff mate, nice to see full coverage on that's left. Sculthorpe was my first place too back in 2014, I love the place and always visit once a year/every couple of years or so as it's so relaxed and it's a large site.

Photos look fab, the editing style gives quite a dark moody vibe for many of the photos which I think is really effective. I'll be going here again soon when I get my new camera to test it out :p you are getting some good use out of that 8-16mm, such a great range.
Thank you mate. Yeah the weather was grey on the second visit, then great moody clouds and rays. By the time I come out of the heritage centre it was bright blue skies and sunshine. Oh have you got a new camera, you gone full frame. Yeah the 8-16 is great, the 8mm comes in handy for split shots. I used my 16-80 and 23mm prime as well.
 

Wastelandr

Goes where the Buddleia grows
Regular User
Thanks mate. I wanted to cover all the used buildings as well for completion. I have not seen z blocks anywhere before, but sure they must have had them elsewhere as they look a standard design type building. I only took three pics in the gym building. It was just a big open space and kids had out graffiti in the squash court. It was open for a few years though and they boarded all the windows from the inside. The other buildings are mainly in use, the standby set house is by a garage. The gas station is cool but absolutely trashed inside now, prob got old pics of it. The school/shop was intact when I went in it.
Interesting I see! Yeah Z blocks seem to have been a standard RAF post-war type of unmarried accommodation. They were present at Waterbeach and there's still some in use at Stafford of what I've come across.
 

Mikeymutt

28DL Regular User
Regular User
Interesting I see! Yeah Z blocks seem to have been a standard RAF post-war type of unmarried accommodation. They were present at Waterbeach and there's still some in use at Stafford of what I've come across.
Ah nice one. I always thought they were an American design, but obviously built by British builder's. Oh some still in use at Stafford.
 
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